Traditional Europe

Brussels, (brùs´elz) Fr. Bruxelles, city (1991 est. pop. 140,050), capital of Belgium. An important manufacturing center, it is also a seat of the European Union and of NATO. Brussels was inhabited by the Romans and later (7th cent.) by the Franks. It developed into a center of the wool trade in the 13th cent. and became (1430) the seat of the dukes of Burgundy and later (1477) of the governors of the Spanish (after 1714, Austrian) Netherlands. In 1830 it became the capital of an independent Belgium. Its historic buildings include the Maison du Roi (13th cent.), Gothic city hall (15th cent.), and parliament building (18th cent.).

Located in Northern France on the straight of Dover, Calais is directly opposite of Dover, England.

The Isle of Capri, floating off the tip of the Sorrento Peninsula at the southern end of the Bay of Naples, has been straining the vocabulary of travelers of 2,000 years. Superlatives seem to spring spontaneously to the lips of every traveler who steps off the boat onto this garden-studded island. The Roman emperor Augustus, recognizing the rare beauty of the place, acquired it from the Neapolitans during the first century BC, in exchange for the nearby Isle of Ischia; the
fact that he was willing to trade a larger and more fertile island should indicate the power that Capri holds on the senses.

The often mispronounced island (the emphasis should be on the first syllable, not the second) is part of the same limestone massif that forms the Amalfi coast, but the landscape is, if anything, even more dramatic. The cliffs seem even more precipitous here, the water even deeper azure, the gardens even more riotous with color and scent. Unfortunately, however, the streets are even more crowded with tourists as well. Capri attracts excursion boats from Naples, Sorrento, Ischia, and Amalfi, and on summer weekends the entire island can take on the appearance of downtown Naples during a hectic rush hour. Your best bet is to come during the off-season or on weekdays and stay overnight; the island becomes almost peaceful in the evenings, after the day-trippers have left.

Capri is shaped roughly like a camel’s back–two high mountains flanking a saddle area that slopes gently to the sea. Capri town, located on the shoulder of the eastern hump, is the heart of island life, teeming with luxury hotels, boutiques, and trattorias. The smaller town of Anacapri is high on the western hump. Between and around the two are footpaths crying out to be explored. They lead past villas of the rich and famous, and every once in a while open up to reveal stunning vistas of cliff and sea.

The island’s most famous attraction is probably the Blue Grotto, but it is, alas, the quintessential tourist trap. You reach it by taking a motorboat from the harbor below Capri (about $5) to the cove around the grotto, where you transfer to smaller boats piloted by aggressive oarsmen. After paying the admission fee (about $6), you will be ferried through a tiny tunnel into the admittedly beautiful grotto and out to the cove again, where the oarsman will kindly inform you that you are
entitled, even encouraged, to tip him. The bill for a three-minute glimpse of the grotto? About $12 or $13, depending on how vunerable you are to the oarsman’s extortion.

There are, however, more rewarding sights to see here. The Villa Jovis, perched on a sheer cliff at the eastern end of the island, is one of the ruined palaces of the emperor Tiberius, who retired to Capri in AD 27. And the Villa San Michele in Anacapri is truly lovely. Built by the Swedish physician Axel Munthe (who wrote a best-selling book, The Story of San Michele, about his life on Capri), the villa is now a pleasant little museum. And its tidy garden provides a welcome escape from the crowds.

Downtown Darmstadt is located 30 kilometers from Frankfurt International Airport.

You’ve heard, perhaps, of the Renaissance? Well, this is the region it started. And without the Renaissance, our art would be poorer, our food and wine would be poorer, and our culture would be poorer plus, the term “Renaissance man” would be meaningless and confusing.

Some interesting sites to visit are the castle where Michealangelo is supposedly tombed, the Arno River, which divides the city in half, with the historical district in the northern part, and the Oltrarno neighborhood to the south. The Piazza del Duomo is usually found with hundreds of tourists, and the Piazza Santa Maria Novella is a regular hangout for immigrants and tourists waiting for the train. Most of the streets are open only to pedestrians, so walking is a welcome reward for getting around, rather than by car or bus. Be sure to get a map with all of the interesting landmarks and entertainment to be found in this great city, available at the tourist office and most hotels. Take your time, there are many Renaissance palaces and Gothic churches to be experienced.

Restless, enduring and wonderful, London is Europe’s largest city. And surely, if you have the choice to visit only two or three cities of the world in your lifetime, by all means make one of them London.

The Romans started it all. The city they developed was “the square mile,” – and Londoners still hunt for Roman relics in the Thames. History is everywhere you look in London, yet today the city is as modern and metropolitan as any city on earth.

By day, London is buzzing with the frenetic pace of commerce not even Dickens could have imagined. By night, the excitement and glitter of theatres, cinemas, pubs and restaurants beckons throngs of travellers from around the world. But there is another London, a peaceful London of cool museums, quiet tea rooms, immaculate gardens and hushed churches.

There is Royal London – ancient pageantry in a modern kingdom – with its palaces, pomp and precise manoeuvres at the Changing of the Guard. And there’s outrageous London, the urban gathering ground for Cockney pitchmen, “fringe” theatre and the city’s youth, with their own distinctive style.

There is also Greenwich, easily accessed from central London by public transport, or take a more scenic route and arrive by riverboat. Notable for both its maritime history and royal heritage, it is perhaps best known for giving its name to the Greenwich Meridian (0° longitude) and Greenwich Mean Time, based at the Royal Observatory.

London, this extraordinary city of contrasts, holds a stunning abundance of hidden-round-the-corner surprises. You owe it to yourself to explore them all. Here, then, is the London you’ll come to know and remember.

Nice (nês), city (1990 pop. 342,439), capital of Alpes-Maritimes dept., SE France, on the Mediterranean Sea. This famous French Riviera resort relies mostly on tourists, but electronics and other manufactures are important. Nice probably originated as a Greek colony in the 5th cent. B.C. Sardinia held it from 1814 to 1860, when a plebiscite gave it to France.

It lies just west of Monaco and enjoys moderate weather during the winter months and lovely warm weather in the Spring and Summer. Whether you are just driving through or staying, Nice is a very nice place to stay! Many great hotels and restaurants are to be found along the coastline and in the surrounding hills overlooking the Mediterranean.

As the French capital, Paris is the commercial, financial, and industrial focus of France, a major transportation hub, and a cultural and intellectual center of international renown. A beautiful city in which tourism is the main industry, Paris is cut by the Seine River. On its stately, formal right (northern) bank are many of the most fashionable streets and shops, and such landmarks as the Arc de Triomphe, Place de la Concorde, Louvre, and Sacré Coeur.

The left bank houses governmental offices and is the site of much of the city’s intellectual life. It is known for its old Latin Quarter and for such landmarks as the Sorbonne, the Luxembourg Palace, the Panthéon, and the modern Pompidou Center (see Beaubourg). The historic core of Paris is the Île de la Cité, a small island occupied in part by the Palais de Justice and the Cathedral of Notre-Dame de Paris. Above the city rises the Eiffel Tower. Paris is divided into 20 arrondissements (boroughs) and governed by a mayor.

A fishing village when it was conquered (52 B.C.) by Caesar, it became an important Roman town. It was a Merovingian capital in the 5th cent. and became the national capital with the accession (987) of Hugh Capet, count of Paris. It flowered as the center of medieval commerce and scholasticism but suffered severely during the Hundred Years War. Paris consistently displayed a rebellious and independent spirit, as in its resistance to Henry IV (1589-93); the first Fronde (1648-49); the revolutions of 1789, 1830, and 1848; and the Commune of Paris (1871). During World War II it was occupied (1940-44) by the Germans but was relatively undamaged.

Rome wasn’t built in a day…but you can tour it in just over 10 hours. A teeming anthill of humanity and antiquity intermingled with awful traffic jams, Rome grew up on the Tiber (“Fiume Tevere”) among seven low hills that rise from the river’s soggy eastern banks. It’s a city of many peeling layers of history, of which the bottom layer–that of the earliest Roman centuries–is the most interesting and still astonishingly whole. The hub of this layer is the Palatine Hill, the Forum, the Colosseum and the Circus Maximus.

On the western bank is the Citta Vaticana, the independent papal city where the Pope blesses pilgrims from all over the world. Neighboring Trastevere (“Across the Tiber”) is a mix of Roman, Greek and Jewish subcultures, great for little restaurants and nightlife. Further north on the other bank is “vecchia Roma,” medieval Rome of the Pantheon and Piazza Navona; Renaissance Rome is centered south of the Corso Vittorio Emanuele. Commercial Rome is the city of the Via del Corso, the Piazza del Popolo, the controversial Victor Emmanuel monument and finally the Stazione Termini, the nexus for all trains and roads from Rome.

As you approach the city over the bridge from the Italian mainland, you leave behind terra firma and, with it, earthbound notions of how to see and experience a city. Venice is not solely the spill of churches and palazzi on either side of the Grand Canal, but rather a city of islands, 118 in all, some of which are little more than the weedy, humps you see in the Lagoon of Venice. And yet these mud flats provided haven for the people who fled here (without benefit of a bridge) from Huns, Visigoths, and other marauders in the fifth century. And those refugees gave birth to a culture that ripened into a thousand years of greatness.

As you near the end of the bridge, you see at first only the back side of the city itself. But in the time it takes to walk through the train station, you begin to hear sounds peculiarly Venetian–the low rumble of boat motors, a humid incubation of voices, water lapping insistently against wood and stone. And then Venice confers her greatest gift: No matter how many times you’ve been here, it always seems, in that first glimse, like the first time.

If you are smart, you will immediately start a tour down the Grand Canal by hopping on a vaporetto (water bus) or gondola or water taxi. If you are lucky, it will be during those few hours before sunset when the light shines most kindly on the venerable facades that line this liquid boulevard. If you are particularly observant, you might even notice that neither the light nor the colors are quite Italian, not like the tawny earth tones of Florence or Rome.

The canal is a murkey green, the palazzi a mix of faded, grimy sherbets–watermarked mint and sun-blanched apricot and deep overripe peach. Sunlight shatters into spangles on the water, gondolas knife bach and forth, the Rialto Bridge looms overhead, and then, beyond one final curve, the Palladian church of Santa Maria della Salute and the Campanile (bell tower) of San Marco come into view.

Piazza san Marco is Venice’s grand salon–expansive, familiar, picturesque, pigeonesque. It is anchored at its eastern extreme by the Basilica di San Marco, which is not only the spiritual seat of Venice’s patron saint but also one of the most glittering monuments of Christendom.

Versailles is located 14 miles from Paris Orly Airport.